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What to look for when purchasing a set of jumper cables for my vehicle? How do I tell the difference between low quality and high-performance jumper cables?

While they may seem like little more than a pair of cables with alligator clips at each end, there is a bit to know when purchasing a set of your own to throw in the back of your vehicle. First of all, the quality of the conductors and insulators used in the cables have a huge impact on the performance, longevity and cost of the jumpers, with the cheapest options mostly constructed with aluminium conductors insulated with PVC sheaths. While aluminium can be fine if sized correctly, aluminium is more brittle, and also has a reduced current carrying capacity, when compared to conventional copper conductors. PVC is also less than ideal and, while quite hard wearing it offers little resistance to high temperatures. This can make working with PVC cables a bit of a challenge. At the other end of the quality spectrum you’ll find high quality oxygen free copper conductors wrapped in dual layer insulators consisting of hardwearing PVC wrapped in flexible, abrasion resistant, chemically and UV stable nitrile. Jumper cables made using pure copper insulators and high quality double insulated nitrile sheaths are not cheap, but can provide a lifetime of service provided they are looked after.

Other materials to look out for are aluminium coated copper conductors, which offer excellent conductivity and resistance to corrosion. Copper clad aluminium on the other hand is markedly inferior in almost every measure with the exception of cost, and is best avoided if you’d like to be able to rely on your jumper cables when the time comes to use them. Silicon rubber is also a common insulator type, which is wonderfully flexible however offers little mechanical protection for the conductors, which means they are easily pierced or torn if treated poorly or exposed to rugged conditions.

If you are familiar with the look and feel of PVC verses silicon and nitrile then a physical inspection should be able to tell you what insulator is used. As for the conductors, copper is substantially heavier than aluminium, so the weight of the cable is the best indicator of what is inside.

What are the different types of jumper cables? What are the differences between car jumper cables and heavy-duty jumper cables for trucks?

Most jumper cables consist of a pair of conductors just long enough to bridge the gap between two vehicles when parked nose to nose, terminated on each end by pairs of large alligator clips. Short jumper cables start at a length of approximately 2.5-metres, which is basically the minimum length required to bridge the distance between the batteries in two vehicle. Longer lengths are available, allowing greater flexibility in bridging gaps between the stranded and jumper vehicle. Grabbing longer jumper cables is highly advisable for this reason, especially if yours is an offroad vehicle or a mid-engine vehicle like a work van, however they must necessarily be markedly larger in capacity due to the compounding effect of inline resistance as the cable gets longer. Longer jumper cables capable of transferring the same amount of power as a shorter set will inevitably have a larger cross sectional area, and cost significantly more, due to the increased size of the conductors.

In terms of sizing, how much current you need to start your vehicle largely depends on the the size of the vehicle and the type of engine, but there is a few rough rules of thumb that can be applied. If you have a small to medium sized compact petrol-driven passenger vehicle then you are probably going to be fine using a set of jumper cables rated for 200-Amps of current flow. Medium to large sized petrol-driven passenger vehicles will likely need no more than 400-Amps worth of current capacity. Larger vehicles like pushrod V8s and diesel driven vehicles like dual cabs, 4WDs and light commercial trucks can need 600A plus. Check the current rating of thejumper cables you select prior to purchase to ensure you select a solution that meets the minimum requirements you need for your particular vehicle.

What are the alternatives?

With the advent of lithium battery technology and the proliferation of modern, lithium battery based portable jump starters, you could be forgiven for thinking you may no longer need to carry a  good set of jumper leads. Jump starters can however deteriorate over time, or fail outright, so even if you have a modern jump starter pack it is highly advisable to keep a set of jumper leads in your vehicle for situations where your jump starter pack doesn’t cut the mustard.

While not a replacement for a trusty set of jumper leads, you should always have a decent battery charger on hand. This is beneficial for several reasons. First of all, a battery charger will help you ensure your battery is returned to a full state of charge after needing a jump, especially if you aren’t gonna be running the vehicle for a long enough period following the jump to fully recharge it. More importantly, a battery charger can be placed on your circuit racer, 4WD, boat, motorhome or other recreational vehicle when left to sit for an extended period, in order to prevent it from needing a jump in the first place.

How do I use your jumper cables to jump start my car or truck?

When jump starting one vehicle with another, there are a few things you can do to minimise the risk of something going wrong. The first thing to do is get the batteries in each vehicle as close together as you can. This usually involves parking nose to nose, as each battery will usually be located in the engine bay. If the battery is on the left side of one vehicle and the right side of the other, it may also be suitable to park the vehicles with the front quarter panels overlapping. Ensure you do not allow the two vehicles to touch, as they must be electrically isolated from each other in order to avoid damage to the sensitive electronics in each vehicles. Once you have the two vehicles positioned, join the positive posts of each vehicle together using the red jumper cable, starting with the vehicle to be jumped, followed by the vehicle which will be doing the jumping. Double, and triple, check your connections prior to attachment in order to avoid any risk of damage. Next attach the black jumper cable to the negative battery post of the jumping vehicle, then attach the other end of the black jumper cable to a solid grounding point on the vehicle to be jump stated. Some modern vehicles will have a designated point to which you should attach the negative jumper lead, otherwise any quality grounding location should do the job. Do not connect the negative jumper lead directly to the negative post of the battery to be jumped, as this will likely result in a hefty spark that can give you a fright, can damage the battery terminal and can even lead to an explosion in the right conditions. If you vehicle doesn’t have a designated grounding point for attachment of jumper cables then look for a clean and unpainted bolt or similar metal point you can attach the alligator clip to. A shock absorber mounting point is often a good option, if a better one cannot be found. Check to make sure the cables are routed in such a way they do not obstruct any moving parts like the engine belts or thermofan. Next start the jumping vehicle, and leave it running for several minutes.

JBL is a brand that has providence in need of no introduction, with a long history of benchmark setting technological development and engineering excellence which is simply second to none. One thing that will come as news to many though is the fact that JBL is now a wholly owned subsidiary of Samsung Electronics, along with its sister companies Arcam, Lexicon, Mark Levinson, Revel and Harmon Kardon. The engineering prowess of these companies combined is as formidable as you will find in the mobile audio space, backed by one of the largest international consumer electronics companies in history.

Why JBL

While James B. Lansing may well have long since joined the feathered chorus, the propensity for innovation and commitment to premium sound reproduction upon which he founded the company remain strong guiding principles to this very day.

JBL's Range

Speakers

JBL's lineup of full range speakers begins with the Stage series, which is designed to offer superior fitment compatibility for more vehicles, while also providing exceptional value for money. This entry level series is divided into 3 sub-series. Stage 1, Stage 2 and Stage 3 represent the Good, Better, Best in this lineup. These are available as a 2-way coaxial in all popular sizes from small 4-inches native to vehicles like the 70-series Landcruiser up to 6x9-inch which is native to many larger sedans, so you can be assured to find a suitable upgrade for your factory speakers.

A step up from the Stage series is JBL's Club series, representing a mid-level offering. Again, these are available as coaxials in all popular sizes, as well as a set of 6.5-inch components for those who have the option of lifting their soundstage by high-mounting the tweeters higher on the doors or up on the dash.

The Stadium series tops out the range, and represents JBL's premium option. Suitable for those who are prepared to spend a little bit more for superior build materials, power handling and sound quality, the Stadium series covers both 6.5-inch and 6x9-inch sizes, with the former available in your choice of coaxial or component sets. JBL also offer a midrange kit, which can be added to the 6.5-inch components to create a proper 3-way front stage.

Amplifiers

JBL offers a two-tied lineup. The entry level Stage series consists of 4 well-featured, high-power, ultra-compact amplifiers featuring an all class D topology with power outputs that belie their tiny footprints. JBL also offer a range of Club series amplifiers, which combine sweeter sounding Class-AB topologies on the full range channels and a class D topology on the subwoofer channel(s). This provides the best of both worlds, affording the pure sound of class-AB with the raw power and efficiency of class-D to fill out the bottom octave.

Subwoofers

Speaking of filling out the bottom octave, JBL offers a 4-tied range of subwoofers. Stage again covers the price conscious end of the market, providing 8, 10 and 12-inch subwoofers, along with a pre-loaded 12-inch in a compact sealed enclosure along with a single 8-inch and dual 12-inch in larger ported enclosures. JBL also offer a 12-inch loaded into a highly efficiency bandpass enclosure for SPL lovers.

JBL's Club series consists of a 10-inch and 12-inch subwoofer, along with a shallow mountable 12-inch and pre-loaded 12-inch in a highly efficient bandpass enclosure.